Laloux

Laloux is one of the most beloved French bistro institute in Montreal. For over 25 years, their menu has been constantly evolving yet staying true to fine dining French cuisine. Many great chefs has walked through the doors of Laloux, worked for several years before opening their own restaurant. Each chef has left their trace to inspire the new generation of upcoming chefs. Who are they? To name a few... one key player is chef André Besson who kept Laloux business going for nearly 17 years, has now settled to Chez Lévêque as a chef and mentor for young apprentices. Years after his departure, there comes a new generation of chefs - Patrice Demers (formely at Le Newton and Les 400 Coups, now Patrice Pâtissier), Danny St-Pierre (Auguste), Seth Gabriesle and Michelle Marek (SAT Foodlab), etc...

We went to Laloux during MTL à Table to try out their $39 3-course meal. We started with some small bites of bresaola complemented with the sweet earthy taste of the beetroots and the tart apple purée. Simply delightful. The other appetizer consists of chunks of sturgeon garnished with glasswort and cauliflower, served over a lobster bisque. The flavour of each component is distinguishable to the palate - the rich taste of lobster in the bisque contrasts well with the smokiness of the sturgeon and the salty plant taste of glasswort.

Next comes the mains. The arctic char was moist and flaky with a nicely crisp skin. It is complemented with a smooth silky butternut squash purée, and some shaved squash and pumpkin seeds for added crunch. Our other main was probably our favourite. This hearty dish is composed of a fall-off-the-bone guinea fowl leg served with its jus, softened field peas, earthy king oyster mushrooms served with a creamy bog myrtle remoulade. Not to mention a piece of foie gras for added luxury.

If you know the type of desserts that Patrice Demers serves on a plate, you'll notice the similarities between his desserts (click here) and the ones served at Laloux. It is made of an arrangement of several dessert elements placed across the plate - a sorbet/ice cream quenelle, a dirt, a shaped creamy element, a small crunchy element, and a viscous element coming out from a squeeze bottle. Eating altogether gives a harmonious combination of interesting flavours and a diversity of texture.